• Bryerpatch Studio can ship this product to USA addresses only .
  • Canadian Customers contact:  Karen Miller kemiller@mail.island,net   or http://www.fabricprintingfx.com
  • Other international customers please contact the manufacturer at neckties@i1.net
• For technical questions, check the manufacturer's page at: http://home.i1.net/~neckties/printing.htm or email Jerome at neckties@i1.net
• Bubble Jet Set comes in 32oz bottles for $16.95 each plus shipping
• Bubble Jet Rinse comes in 16oz bottles for $6.95 each plus shipping

This is what we have all been waiting for......................the magic elixir that allows us to print color photographs or anything else directly to fabric on our home computers for a fraction of the price Canon or June Taylor, charge for their fabric sheets.

It is a liquid fabric soak that will make ink jet and bubble jet ink permanent (washable) on 100% cotton and 100% silk fabrics.  It  leaves the fabric soft like dye, not crusty like painted fabric, or plasticky like transfer paper. It is a clear liquid and comes in 32 oz bottles. Here is a small quilt I made from one of my photos of our trip to Australia. Click on the links below for a closer view. whole quilt  •  extra close detail (48K) Below is a menu answers to your questions and tips for using this great product. Some are long and detailed, so clicking will take you to a new page. You can get back to this menu by clicking on your "back" button or clicking on the "Back BJS Menu" button.

Here are the Manufacturers Instructions for using Bubble Jet Set :

On the label of the bottle: Shake well and pour solution into flat pan.  Saturate fabric in the solution for five minutes.  Allow fabric to dry.  Iron fabric to the smooth side of freezer paper. Cut size to fit your printer.  Print on treated fabric, and let sit for 30 minutes. Machine wash (delicate Cycle) in cold water with a mild detergent.   For best results wash with "Bubble Jet Rinse"  (available from Bryerpatch Studio Internet Store) Precautions:  Rubber Gloves recommended.  Use only in areas with adequate ventilation.  Use only as directed. Results may vary with different printers and inks. 

Here is a newsletter from the Manufacturer: This letter is for all Bubble Jet Set 2000 users. My name is Jerome Jenkins and my job responsibility is to educate and demonstrate to all crafters how to properly use the product Bubble Jet Set 2000. I am writing this letter to all crafters because there is a lot of incorrect information out there about how to use this product.

1. If you are using or selling the Original Bubble Jet Set formula please tell all consumers that this product has been replaced with the Bubble Jet Set 2000.
2. The Bubble Jet Set 2000 will work with HP printers and all other printers. This product replaced the original formula - we do not manufacture the Original Formula any longer.
3. This product cannot be heat set. If you attempt to heat set this product it will not work at all! Many crafters attempt to make the image permanent by heating in the dryer or with a iron. The final step "which is washing the fabric with a mild detergent" is necessary in making this product work correctly.
4. This product only works with 100% cotton or 100% silk. If you use fabrics with synthetic blends, it will not work. Must be 100% cotton or silk.
5. Results will vary with different printers.
6. DO NOT WASH IN COLD WATER ONLY! --- You must use a mild detergent when washing the fabric. We highly recommend the Bubble Jet Rinse product. If you do not wash your designs with a mild detergent, it will BLEED! The purpose for this step is to get the loose inks out of the fabric. Cold water will not get these loose inks out of the fabric and when it dries it will bleed! If washing the fabric by hand please wash with the Bubble Jet Rinse and work the rinse in the fabric for about 2 minutes. This should get all the loose inks out. Again, do not simply run the fabric under cold water. (Please use the Bubble Jet Rinse!)
7. Most important --- please follow the instructions on the bottle!

Cut your fabric sheets (before soaking) slightly larger than the size you will be printing.  (i.e. for 8½ x 11 cut your sheets 9" x 10½" or larger) This allows you to trim off to the exact size of a piece of copier paper, and allows for shrinkage. Keep in mind that you are not necessarily limited to 11" long just because your printers width is 8½". Most printers have a banner setting and will print 44" or longer. You can made really big pictures in strips and then sew them together.

I discovered that if there are any air bubbles between the fabric and the freezer paper it can cause your print to smudge, so it is important to iron the fabric until it is thoroughly bonded to the freezer paper.  I found that you can use the same piece of freezer paper several times, and after the first use it is easier to get it flat and free of air bubbles.

You can also adhere your fabric sheets to copier paper or card stock with one of the repositionable aerosol adhesives on the market.  There are many different brands, and all may not work equally well.  I had very good results with 3M Photo-Mount. (Available at office supply stores and camera stores)  Some of the embroidery sprays available at quilt shops may work equally well.

Cut the fabric sheets to copier size with a sharp rotary cutter, using a gridded cutting mat as a guide. Avoid little hairs sticking out from the side that might catch in the printer.

Run the fabric sheets through your printer just like paper.  

Soaking tips: 

I usually soak a whole pile of fabric sheets at the same time. 
Lay one sheet in the bottom of a flat plastic box and pour a little BJS on top.  Wearing gloves, rub the liquid into the fabric until it is thoroughly soaked. Put a second sheet on top of the first, and it will soak up the excess liquid from the first sheet.   Pour a little more BJS on the second sheet and rubbed it in.  Then add the third sheet to the pile, and so on and so on.  When  finished your will have a big pile of thoroughly soaked fabric with no wasted excess liquid in the bottom of the plastic box.  Hang dry the fabric, or spread the fabric to dry on a table top covered with a plastic sheet a towel.

I got a total of sixty eight 9" x 12" sheets of from one 32 oz bottle of BJS.  This was with a fine quality pima cotton.  A more absorbent fabric like muslin or sheeting will yield fewer sheets, and a finer fabric like silk habitue will yield more.

Tips for good printing:

I did some experiments on the printer settings on my Epson 600 printer, and found that I got the best quality print by using the "advanced" or "custom" options rather than the automatic settings.  Click on the advanced option, and then click on the more settings button. Under print quality,  I selected the finest DPI (720x1440).   Under media type I selected photo quality glossy film or photo quality glossy paper (didn't seem to make a difference).  Under color adjustment, I selected "vivid" (seems to put out more ink, which soaks further into the fabric.).  The one exception to the vivid setting is when I am printing warm reds (rust, orange, peach, coral)  The vivid setting seems to favor fuschia, and the reds shift from warm to cool at this setting.  You will need to make several test prints to find the best settings for your printer. I find that on my new Epson printer I get the best results on the automatic setting and that the images need to be improved (more saturation and more contrast) in a graphics program to get the most brilliant results.

To avoid smudging of your prints, see: Tips for preparing the fabric sheets for the printer

Tips for washing out:

I recommend washing in a washer with lots of water to make sure that all unreacted ink is removed from the fabric.  If you use a small container of water, there is a chance that as the excess ink and chemical wash out of the fabric the molecules will attach to other parts of the fabric, causing graying of the image. 

Use lots of water, and be sure your fabric can move about freely.   One customer reported getting a black line along a fold in her fabric. If the loose ink migrates to a fold before all the chemical is washed out, it can still react with the fabric and create an unwanted mark.   Do not let the fabric fold back on itself.  This can also cause ink to transfer from one area of the printed image to another.    I use the large load setting for the wash process.  I want to be sure all the chemical and excess dye are out, and I don't want to risk having excess ink reacting in places where I don't want it.  During the wash cycle, I look in the wash tub and check to be sure the printed fabrics are not folded or twisted.  If you hand wash, use a big tub of water, and keep the fabric moving. 

I find that I get the best results when I dry the washed fabric in the dryer along with an old towel.

Is the treated fabric safe for baby quilts?

Is the treated fabric safe for bird toys?

This product has not been tested for children's wear or animal toys, so it is not recommended. Please contact the manufacturer directly for more information about the chemistry:  Jerome at neckties@i1.net

Fold Warning

Another quilter reported that her fabric was folded when she washed her fabric in the washer.  Apparently some of the loose ink collected in the fold, and reacted with the fabric, because she had a visible line along the fold when she ironed her fabric.  You might want to stop the washer a couple of times during the wash cycle, and make sure the fabric is not folded back on itself or twisted while it is agitating.

I often rinse each piece individually in a laundry tub of water and Bubble Jet Set before tossing them into the washer. I grab the corners and drag the fabric through the water to remove most of the loose ink before it goes in with the other fabric.

Can this product be used with copiers?

Laser copiers and laser printers do not require this product. I run fabric through my  old Canon PC-7 copier, all the time and just heat set it with a steam iron. If you can find someone who is willing to run your fabric through their color laser copier, that will be permanent also. Unfortunately the color machines are very expensive, and finding someone willing to run fabric through one (thus voiding their warrantee) is rare.

I'm not an expert, but as far as I know, the color copiers that are sold for home use are all ink-jet, not laser.  If you can run your fabric through, this product will work with your copier. 

In simpler terms:  If your copier is refilled with powder, it can be heat set, and will be permanent.  If you refill your copier with an ink cartridge, it is ink-jet, and you will need BJS to make it permanent.

Here's a great testimonial:

Dear Caryl, I recently ordered Bubble-Jet from you. I accidentally came across it while browsing your page. I had been very upset to find my new Epson printer ink was water soluble, and couldn't figure out what I should do for quilt labels...hand printing them is almost out of the question as I put song lyrics and short stories on the labels. I have to admit, I was skeptical, but read the directions, and followed them to the letter. Tonight I printed out my first batch of labels, I am absolutely amazed...This stuff works!! I even washed one of the labels that had a wrinkle in it only 5 hours later--no running! I can't thank you enough for making bubble-jet available---and for being as close as my computer when I need to order more. I have quilts that have been waiting for months for a label..I didn't know what I was going to do..Thank you..over and over...Bev Custer
PS. Feel free to use these statements to anyone considering the purchase of this amazing stuff!...they will be thrilled, but tell them to order two bottles, like I did! They won't want to run out!

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